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San Pedro, Guatemala is a place TO miss. The location is ideal. The culture is rich. The potential for a wonderful experience is great. Or so I was lead to believe…
The tiny town is located on the shore of Lago Atitlan, located in the mountains of southern Guatemala. There are two ways of getting in from the tourist capital of Antigua. By chicken bus (a bumpy and uncomfortable ride) or by boat, which in theory should be nicer. I chose the later. After finding a spot in the 12 seat-er fiberglass launcha, I checked out my company for the 40 minute ride. At first I was the only foreigner on board, until a skinny boy with huge glasses joined me at the front. I’m not sure what the K’iche’ locals who surrounded us were gossiping about in their language, but I’m sure a couple remarks were directed our way. Once we were fully loaded, the boat was pushed off.
The skinny guy took pity on me. Apparently I looked a little nervous as our boat made cracking noises every other wave we hit. Plus there was a green faced child sitting next to me, looking like she was about to be sea sick in my lap. The boy introduced himself as Alex and insisted on being my official tour guide. He told me that he had meant to stay in San Pedro for four days, but was now onto his fourth month in the town. I took this as a good sign (while choosing to ignore the blood dripping down his arm from a fresh tattoo). As the boat pulled into the dock, Alex told me to stick tight to him and ignore the locals on the shore. Apparently they would insist I stay in their hostels and charge me triple the price. Plus Alex knew all the best places in town (which wasn’t saying much, I later discovered). 40 Quetzales (about five dollars US) a night will get you a double bed, a hot(ish) shower and a private bathroom in the Jarachik hostel. Sounding good to me, I handed over my passport number and the cash. Alex left for his late afternoon nap (not to be confused with his early afternoon nap) and I lugged my heavy backpack up the stairs to my new digs.
After naming the 13 flies on my ceiling, I was feeling fairly lonely and more then slightly pathetic. I decided I had to stop feeling sorry for myself. I would get a drink at the bar downstairs. I didn’t even need to leave my hostel to figure out the general vibe of San Pedro. The German boy sitting to my left was reading a book twice as large as a bible, bopping his head to the techno beats coming from some speakers. An older man (at least in his 60s) rolled a joint next to me while talking to the Dutch bartender. Two Americans across the bar exchanged stories about the girls they loved and lost on their travels. Alex showed up, clearly on something, looking for a quick drink. I met another Canadian, who was able to explain to me just exactly what I was missing. I knew something seemed off about the down, but couldn’t put my finger on it. Turns out, it’s the drug capital of Guatemala. Possibly of all Central America. And if you’re not looking to get high, you’re in the wrong place. Not to be mistaken, everyone is really friendly, they just might have a glazed over look in their eye…
That night, after tossing and turning in my questionable bed (something smelled strange), I woke up and started my search for a decent breakfast. After choking back some greasy eggs, I met someone able to hold eye contact for longer then two seconds. His name was Seth, but I liked to refer to him as The Only Other Sober Person In This Town. We joined forces and got prepared to explore. Since there is only one main street in San Pedro and a few back alleys, we left without a plan. When we got to a fork in the “road” we took turns choosing which way to go. We ran into a funeral procession and Seth ran into a pile of dog crap. The town is small, tight, dirty and the locals aren´t friendly at all. When they see your foreign face, they assume you’re screwed up on something. And that you’re part of the reason the town is going down hill, fast. Didn't make for a very comfortable experiance.
Then the rain started. When your path is only a couple feet wide and made of dirt, a river of brown water coming towards you doesn’t look so nice. Then you remember how many piles of dog poop you dodged earlier and the smell of urine in the air. And you realize that the now rushing River of Death about to sweep you off your feet has “cleaned” the street. And is full of garbage and waste. Seth and I sprinted towards the hostel as the disgusting water lapped at our flip-flopped feet. Taking shelter under a wobbly looking umbrella, we discussed our options. There was a shuttle out of town that evening which was tempting. But the rain shower had turned to thunderstorms and there were no more paths, only rivers. There was no other choice. We had to get drunk. The next morning I woke up with fear in my heart. Did the rain stop? Would I be able to escape this hell hole? How hung over was I? But the sun was shining, the birds were singing and the coffee was strong and fresh. Apparently Seth had caught the early bus out, and I was on my own, once again. Alex stopped by before I left to ask if I wanted anything from the bakery. I mentioned banana bread, but he heard "hash brownies". I was gone before he got back with them, even though “they’re like, only 20 Q's, man!”
Sharing a seat in an old beat up school bus with two locals never felt so good… |
 The tiny boat I took to San Pedro, full to the max, plus some. |
 One of the alley ways, also called a "road" in San Pedro. It smelt terrible. |
 My sweet pad. Complete with scratchy brown toilet paper. |
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Leave a Comment
BAM at 9:32pm on Mar. 12, 2008
3 months ago
Great read!
Unfortunately I got the same vibe in Nicaragua. Why not stop be and check it out? Reply...
Adam Durfee at 2:31pm on Feb. 26, 2008
4 months ago
That bedroom looks a bit creepy. Not surprised it smelled funny. Sounds like a very surreal visit. Great writing. Reply...
JD Ross at 2:43pm on Jan. 30, 2008
5 months ago
Very funny story, and congrats on the prize! Reply...
englslady at 7:58am on Jan. 23, 2008
5 months ago
Good story. The mattress looks kind of nasty but at least there was one. Reply...
Hunter N. Fisher at 4:47pm on Jan. 19, 2008
5 months ago
Another great story! I'm getting cabin fever and we still have two more months of winter! I might have to go South for a month. Reply...
forresta02 at 10:28am on Jan. 16, 2008
5 months ago
WOW! I don't think I want to visit there. Interesting pics, I must say. Reply...
Stewie at 3:21pm on Dec. 30, 2007
5 months ago
Your room looks fantastic. Was this photo taken before or after the turn down service? Is that a mint on the pillow? FYI, I always bring my own TP. It only takes up a little space but it's better than having to "use a rock" which is what I was told while in Copper Canyon in Mexico. Reply...
TonyaTko at 3:16am on Jan. 14, 2008
OH MY!
-TonyaTKo Reply...