Human Sacrifice of a Hawaiian King: Ke'eku Heiau, Big Island Hawaii

On the grounds of the Keauhou Beach Hotel are the remains of a heiau that served as both a luakini heiau (place of human sacrifice) and pu'uhonua (place of refuge). Built by the Hawai'ian Ali'i Lonoikamakakahiki in the 16th century, Ke'eku Heiau is one of the most famous religious sites in the State of Hawai'i because of its veneration in folk tales involving the 16th century wars between the Hawai'i and the Maui. The Heiau has walls an impressive 6 to 11 feet thick, and measures 150 by 100 feet in area. There are two stone features on the heiau's raised stone platform said to represent the defeated Maui Ali'i' Kamalalawalu's black and white war dogs, Kapapako and Kauakahiok'oka.

Carved into the rock in the inter-tidal region in front of this heiau is an impressive set of ki'i pohaku (petroglyphs). Due to geological subsidence of the island over the past several hundred years, these petroglyphs are visible only at low tide, or by mask and snorkel. There is one large anthropomorphic petroglyph in particular that is said to represent the sacrificed Maui Ali'i, Kamalalawalu.

To reach Ke'eku Heiau, park either in the Kahalu'u Beach Park or at Keauhou Ohana Beach Resort. From Kahalu'u, walk onto the Keauhou Ohana Beach Resort property through the gateway in the fence between them and follow the asphalt path to the pool deck, through the lobby of the resort and join the paved path that runs along the end of the Resort driveway. From the Resort parking lot, walk up the drive to the paved path that runs along the end of the driveway. Following along this path, one passes Punawai Spring first, then, where the path runs around the end of the tennis courts the Mo'o Twins homesite. Continuing on the path until it ends at a broken concrete bridge among "No Trespassing" signs is Hapaial'i Heiau. To get to Ke'eku Heiau, one may take one's chances crossing the old concrete bridge, or one can walk on stones and wade across the tidepool at low tide (be very careful, the rocks are extremely slippery). Immediately at the south end of the bridge begin the walls and platforms of Ke'eku Heiau. Although in ruin and disarray, this Heiau is one of the most accessible and impressive temple sites in the immediate area. Remember that these are holy religious sites to modern native Hawai'ians; to not trespass, walk or climb on the temple proper; take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints.

During 16th century, Lonoikamakakahiki, a Hawai'ian Ali'i, and Kamalalawalu, an Ali'i of the Maui, had numerous battles for possession of each other's island. It is said of the penultimate of these battles, when the Maui attacked the Hawai'i, the numbers of warriors was so vast that as the first of the Maui war canoes were landing on Hawai'i, the last of their canoes were just leaving Maui.

Lonoikamakakahiki had become enraged with Kamalalawalu during the course of this battle. The invading Maui had captured his leading general, gouged his eyes out and then had spears run through his eye sockets. Lonoikamakakahiki vowed a bloody revenge.

When Lonoikamakakahiki's army vanquished the Maui, he took Kamalalawalu over to the Ke'eku Heiau and sacrificed him alive to celebrate the great victory. The method of sacrifice was slow and graphic. Kamalalawalu was staked to the ground for several days, then taken to a nearby flat rock and butchered. The body was then towed to sea and fed to the sharks (some versions of the folktale have Kamalalawalu impaled on a pole for several days, before being butchered on the flat rock).

Hawai'ian folktales hold that Kamalalawalu brought with him into battle two large, fierce war dogs, a white one (Kapapako) and a black one (Kauakahiok'oka). The dogs are said to have lain down and died on the spot of Kamalalawalu's execution. Although buried beneath the heiau luakini platform, it is said that these dogs can still be seen roaming, and heard howling, in the night searching for their fallen master. Two stone features found on the makai side of the Ke'eku Heiau stone platform represent Kamalalawalu's two dogs.

Petroglyphs along the rocks, visible at low tide between Kahalu'u Beach Park and Keauhou O'hana Beach Resort, commemorate the sacrifice of Kamalalawalu by Lonoikamakakahiki. No Services.

For more information on visiting Hawaii in general and touring ancient temples on the Big Island in particular, visit www.tourguidehawii.com and www.lovingthebigisland.wordpress.com.

Filmed and Produced by Donald B. MacGowan.